Grand Hotel, Taipei

Our research into the classical luxury hotels of Asia continues. We spent last weekend in the 圓山大飯店, the Grand Hotel in Taipei, a place built by Chiang Kai-sheck’s cronies back in the 1950s to impress visiting dignitaries, pop stars and other celebrities. It’s the largest Chinese-style hotel in the world — each of the eight floors is decorated in the manner of an imperial dynasty.

The place has clearly gone downhill since Chiang’s days. The showers need updating and the doors aren’t Tang dynasty at all but rather 1960s plywood. Still, it’s a jolly place. Full of Taiwanese people curious to have a look at a Chinese-style building (there are only too few in this country). And in the Cantonese restaurant on the second floor some serious eating is going on.

A booklet by our bedside warned us “not to be vociferous in hotel” and asked patients with contagious diseases to “let us have your precedent informed.” Helpfully “the condom is available during your stay, please contact our housekeeper at extension 45 when needed.” We never made that call.

In the evening we escaped from our plush surroundings and went to the night market in 士林, Shilin. They have cheap clothes there and endless food stalls. I had the best cooked glutinous rice balls with ground peanuts and brown sugar I have had in my entire life.

Yes, we aren’t really luxury hotel material — but it was fun to make believe for a weekend.